What to Know When Drinking Sake

Japan’s national beverage has, in recent years, taken part of the world – the part that has acquired a taste for it – by storm. And those who have developed a palate for sake, seldom look back.

This rice-based alcoholic drink (also known as ‘nihonshu’ in Japanese”) has a smooth mouthfeel and comes in a spectrum of textures and flavours. It is also delicious warm or chilled, on its own or paired with various foods.

In Japanese, sake just means alcohol. And yet, this age-old drink is anything but generic.

Sake is made through the basic process of fermenting rice that has been polished or has had its bran removed. In sake-making, two important chemical processes happen at the same time; the starch from polished rice is converted into sugars and fermented to form alcohol.

Typically, at a sake brewery, the polished rice is washed, steamed and then cooled, before a fifth of it is spread out on wooden tables for fermentation. The fermentation period is where the aims and techniques of the ‘toji’ or master brewer will determine the style and flavour of the sake.

Sake quality can differ greatly depending on the polishing ratio – this refers to the amount of rice that remains in the process of sake-making. For example, if a sake has a 40% polishing ratio, it means that 60% of the rice has been polished away. Once milled away, the rice grains reveal a starchy core that is changed into fermentable sugar by the koji mould, a fungal agent that transforms starch into sugar that ferments into alcohol.

Rice polishing ratio is a key factor that determines the grade of the sake, with the lowest being the most premium due to the effort needed to produce such sake. But rice polishing ratio simply changes the taste and flavour of sake. And having a low ratio (clean and lighter bodied) doesn’t necessarily make a drink better than one with a higher ratio (savoury, rice-like flavours).

Here’s an overview on the different classifications on sake:

*As Junmai refers to sake that does not have any distilled alcohol added, you will find Junmai versions of other sake grades, like Junmai Daiginjo and Junmai Ginjo.

In Japan, during formal events like weddings and other significant ceremonial occasions, sake is served in a small, flat porcelain cup with a wide mouth called a ‘sakazuki’.

In a casual setting, sake is traditionally poured from ceramic flasks, called ‘tokkuri’, into small cups called ‘choko’ or ‘o-choko’. This practice is very common for hot sake, where the flask is heated in hot water and the small cups ensure that the sake does not lose its warmth too quickly. However, these cups may also be used for chilled sake.

Another traditional cup that sake is drunk from is the ‘masu’, a box usually made of ‘hinoki’ (Japanese cypress) or ‘sugi’ (Japanese cedar) – these boxes were originally used for measuring rice. The sake is served by filling the ‘masu’ to the brim; this is done for chilled or room-temperature sake. In some Japanese restaurants, as a show of generosity and a love of abundance, the server may put a sake cup inside the ‘masu’ or put the ‘masu’ on a saucer and pour until sake overflows and fills both containers.

Sake can be served chilled, at room temperature, or hot, depending on the preference of the drinker, the characteristics of the sake, and the time of year.

Hot sake is usually drunk in winter when the weather is chilly, while premium-grade sakes are better drunk cold, to bring out their flavours and aroma. In all seasons, lower-grade sakes are traditionally drunk warm or hot too, to mask the less than refined flavours.

Singapore Airlines’ Air Sommelier Adrian Seah believes that whether you have your sake chilled or warm is entirely up to you. For those who want some guidance, the certified Sake Scholar and Sommelier offers these general rules of thumb that are easy to follow.

Cold sake: Fruity, delicate and aromatic sakes would be best served chilled at 6-13°C for a fresh taste and at 15-18°C to fully appreciate the aromas and flavours.

Warm sake: Warming up sake, on the other hand, makes it milder and more savoury. Flavours like umami, grain and cereal notes will be amplified. For warm sakes, a range of 40-50°C is usually recommended. You can easily warm up sake in a ceramic or glass flask in a hot water bath of 80°C for 3-4 minutes.

A simple guide to remember is that sakes generally fall into 4 broad categories: light and dry, light and sweet, rich and dry, rich and sweet.

If you’re unsure about sake food pairings, remember to pair the sake flavours and intensity with foods that have similar characteristics.

• Light and dry sake: goes well with seafood dishes like steamed or raw fish and grilled or sautéed prawns.

• Light and sweet sake: pairs perfectly with something light but carbohydrate-based, such as ramen, pasta or grilled chicken or fish.

• Rich and dry sake: brings out the flavours of meaty dishes like ribs, meat balls, Japanese fried rice and tempura.

• Rich and sweet sake: aim for a balanced meal of steak and potatoes, soft cheeses, a creamy-sauced, meat-topped pasta, and end it off with a heavy chocolate dessert. Teppanyaki with all the sides and trimmings will be just as perfect.

According to Air Sommelier Adrian Seah, because it is such a versatile beverage, sake is enjoyable on its own, as well as with food. It boils down to a person’s individual preference of the sake’s taste profile. If you like the taste profile of the sake, you will be able to enjoy it on its own at a preferred temperature.

The best sakes to drink on their own are mildly aromatic, fresh, clean, with a dry, crisp finish. This style of sake is also known as 'Karakuchi' or 'Chokarakuchi'.

Adrian recommends the Hagiwara Tokubetsu Junmai Yamahai sake, Yamahai being an ancient technique used to create lactic acid during the brewing process. This technique creates sakes that are richer in flavours, complex and higher in acidity than those made through modern brewing techniques. Sometimes, a Yamahai can even develop complex nutty and caramel aromas.

Recommended pairing: Rich dishes with a higher fat content. The full-bodied flavours of the sake will be able to complement these dishes and its higher acidity will also balance out the fattiness of dishes like Japanese Kurobuta Tonkatsu, Western-style medium-rare A5 Wagyu steak and local claypot rice.

A must-try on Adrian’s list is the Dassai 23. It is a balanced Junmai Daiginjo sake made from Yamada Nishiki, also known as the king of sake rice, which is polished to 23% of its original grain size for a more delicate flavour and texture. That translates to a high polishing ratio of over 70%. Dassai 23 is in fact the first sake to have achieved such a degree of polishing and purity. Also served on SIA’s First and Business Class in 2016, it has delicious and fragrant tasting notes of peony, iris and pear, with hints of candied praline, vanilla and caramel.

The special edition Dassai 23 Batik Collection was launched last year in 2021 to commemorate SJ55, the 55^th anniversary of Singapore-Japan relations. Affectionately referred to as Batik Dassai, its exquisite label and box features the iconic Singapore Airlines batik motif in gold and blue tones.

Recommended pairing: With its aromatic, elegant and slightly sweet profile, it’s a sake that can be enjoyed on its own or with creamy cheese like Camembert or even desserts.

Another top-grade Junmai Daiginjo sake to try is the Saito Junmai Daiginjo Sake. It’s smooth, elegant and full-bodied, with fruity hints of pear. It is made from yamadanishiki rice called King of Rice and offers and a more-ish, umami palate.

Recommended pairing: This voluptuous sake will pair well with heavier dishes like beef and pork stews, as well as a buttery dessert like custard and pear tart.

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