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HOME > THE EDIT > The Key Ingredients Your Skin Really Needs

The Key Ingredients Your Skin Really Needs

8 September 2022

Tried and tested. Three local beauty brand founders share their favourite skincare ingredients and why SPF is a must.

Sun spots or freckles and large pores on dry skin, stubborn acne scars that don’t go away - these are a few of our least favourite things. Amidst the rise and fall of beauty trends, the quest for glowy skin is still ongoing. 

But getting healthy skin isn’t just about using top-raved products available on the market. 

Building a reliable beauty arsenal requires identifying your skin type and learning its needs before diving into a sea of products. If you’re constantly switching out products without proper research, you may be susceptible to a host of skin problems like dermatitis and clogged pores. Karen Lam, founder of homegrown beauty brand ést.lab learnt this the hard way when she picked out a moisturiser that was suited for older skin. “I was in my 20s then, and I recall being drawn to the cream because of its ethereal packaging,” the entrepreneur says. “Alas, it was too rich for my younger skin then and I experienced terrible breakouts after.” 

There are five main skin types: Oily, Dry, Normal, Combination and Sensitive. They’re non-exclusive and while it may sound contradictory, you can have a blend of at least two skin types. 

Sun-Protection Is Non-Negotiable

It’s natural for your beauty routine to change with time. But one thing that should never leave your beauty bag is sun protection. SPF treads on holy-grail territory in the world of skincare as sun damage sits high on the list of skin issues. Xenia Wong, founder of homegrown clean beauty brand Sigi Skin, reckons that her first ever beauty routine was to apply sunscreen and moisturiser religiously. “I suffered a bad sunburnt at 13. The whole experience was so painful and I didn’t want to go through it again,” she says. “That’s when I learnt the importance of sunscreen.”

Starting on sun protection early has its perks. Sun damage symptoms can appear as soon as you hit your early 20s; you’ll start noticing pigmentation, loss of skin elasticity, wrinkles and more. Pauline Ng, who founded holistic beauty brand Porcelain, considers SPF a must-have, citing it as a way to “buy extra time before signs of ageing show up”. 

Think of it as an entry-level skincare necessity for all ages, especially if you enjoy going outdoors. Prolonged sun exposure also compromises one’s skin immunity, says Karen. Having skipped out on sun protection during her younger days, the ést.lab founder admits that her skin’s immunity has been greatly compromised. “Not using SPF led to me developing hyper pigmentation and severe acne breakouts,” she reveals. “It took a long time for my skin to recover.” 

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Hydrate And Protect Your Skin

And you may be wondering, does skincare just stop at the basic cleanser, moisturiser and sunscreen? It depends. As our skin ages, we will experience drastic skin changes like an increased production of oil, which can result in blackheads, hormonal acne and more. Unfortunately, there’s no singular fool-proof remedy to resolve these issues. But keeping your skin barrier happy will help control sebum production and improve the condition of your skin.

One of the best kept secrets in the beauty industry is Niacinamide. A form of Vitamin B3, this ingredient has multiple benefits for skin-balancing and barrier-restoring. Acne-prone individuals, you’ll love it for its anti-inflammatory properties. Xenia considers Niacinamide an underrated skincare hero: “It will brighten, strengthen and hydrate your skin without irritating it - you’ll definitely find niacinamide in a lot of Sigi Skin products.” The gentle yet potent ingredient works by encouraging keratin production, which helps firm up skin. It also restores the lipid barrier to retain skin moisture. 

Proper hydration is key for glowy skin. Amp up your skin’s hydration levels without clogging your pores with Sodium Hyaluronate (a derivative of the more common Hyaluronic Acid). Pauline shares that many of Porcelain’s products carry this ingredient, as it is particularly effective due to its small molecular weight. This is because it is able to penetrate deeper into the skin and hydrate it from within. Instead of coating the skin’s surface, it works by attracting moisture within skin cells to reduce dryness. 

Soothe Sensitive Skin

For those who’ve had the unfortunate experience of accidentally burning or irritating your skin after trying out a new product, you’re not alone. Karen, who is also a certified beauty therapist, reckons that skin sensitivity is one of her key concerns when she’s formulating products. “I have very sensitive skin that’s easily triggered by many factors,” she shares. “That’s why I always try product samples on my skin, it’s an additional litmus test I do even after lab tests - just to be sure.” 

And sure, staying away from products that are too strong (i.e chemical exfoliants, fragrance-heavy creams or even retinol) will work. But you’ll also need a back-up plan to soothe your skin, should it still end up getting irritated. Karen is a fan of products that are formulated with a neurocosmetics approach. This means that these products have been tested to have a direct effect on the skin which can influence nerve receptors, resulting in quicker soothing results. And the star ingredient? Alkaline Amino Acid Extract. It’s a great ingredient for anti-inflammation as it is able to reduce erythema, a skin rash caused by injured or inflamed blood capillaries in a short amount of time (up to 60% in an hour). 

More September Skincare Steals

Another daily-use ingredient for sensitive skin is Probiotics - no, we’re not talking about your favourite Yakult drink. Like any natural surface, your skin has a microbiome - AKA a host of microorganisms. Before you shriek, it’s completely normal and for the most part, your microbiome automatically balances itself out. But there are also occasions where, due to many external factors, our skin’s barrier is disrupted. Here’s where you may experience skin irritation like eczema, rash and even rosacea. 

For Xenia, she uses a sheet mask with probiotics components regularly to keep her skin happy. Probiotics work by providing the necessary nutrients for the growth of healthy microbes on the surface of your skin. “At night, after double cleansing, I’ll prep my skin and pop on the mask,” the millennial girl boss says. “It does wonders to reduce redness and irritation.”

Like you, beauty entrepreneurs also experience the everyday skincare conundrums. But they’ve turned their problems into solutions that can help you with your beauty woes. And if you still can’t tell what your skin type is, visiting a dermatologist soon may not be such a bad idea after all. You can then get started on curating the best products for your skin type. 

For more homegrown beauty goodness, head over to With Love, SG, a KrisShop concept store that celebrates all things local. 


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